Tag Archives: Trastevere

Skeers Family Fun

After returning from Barcelona, I had to scramble to clean my studio in time. My friend John would be there in just a few hours to photograph me in the intern apartment. He photographs people in their bedrooms (not creepy) for a series he’s working on. You can check out his work here and my photo below. Isn’t it awesome?! I will cherish it forever. The UWRC will use it to promote the internship! Thanks, John!

At Home in the Intern Apartment

Only a few days later, my apartment became a home for two. Maggie, my former roommate Chad’s sister, visited Italy for 18 days, mostly spent in Rome with a few weekends away in Pisa, Florence and Cinque Terre. More on that later. On her first evening in Rome, I took Maggie on my impress-people walk and we ended up at Castel Sant’Angelo, a frequent motif in my blog posts. The next day Maggie took a solo-trip to the Colosseum and had a run-in with a guido. She escaped by latching on to a tour guide who fed her false information about ancient Rome. Don’t worry, I cleared things up.

Maggie and Me at Castel Sant' Angelo

By the next day it was already time for our trip to Tuscany, but this is just a teaser. Look for the next post about shenanigans in Pisa and Florence. We came back from the trip loaded down with goods and ready to be home in our Roman beds. On Monday we decided to explore a different neighborhood of Rome, Trastevere. This neighborhood across the river ranks as one of the best Roman rione in my opinion. We wandered down the tiny streets stopping in boutiques and bookstores and ending up in Santa Maria in Trastevere.

Below the Pincio in Piazza del Popolo

Later that week we were yearning for some green and made plans to visit Villa Borghese. We began at the Pincio and wandered through the gardens to the gallery. I played tour guide in the museum and Maggie and I started to wonder why many of those mythological stories are so similar. There’s a whole lotta love, lust, rape, murder and suicide. Since we’re in the mood for mythology, my next post will contain a poem by Rebecca Hoogs, Creative Writing professor. It’s a modern spin on an old classic she presented during summer quarter.

Maggie in the Borghese Gardens

The next day brought us to the Spanish Steps. Finally some sun! Why was June so wintery anyway? We basked in the sun on the steps, got a little sweaty and then it was time to head home.

That night we invited our neighbors out to my favorite bar, Birreria Trilussa. You remember the giraffa, no? Me either. After we had finished TWO of those, we descended to the river where booths selling trinkets and grub are set up on the banks all summer for Estate Romana.

Giraffa!

I woke up a little fuzzy, but ready for our trip to Cinque Terre, one of the most beautiful spots in the world. So beautiful it warrants its own post. Check back later!

The day we came back from the Cinque, I spent running around arranging things for the faculty welcome dinner in the penthouse that night. Maggie cut bread and I scrounged up enough plates and glasses for all 16 attendees. Lucky us, the faculty dinner was the same day as Saints Peter and Paul holiday. That night we ran from dinner to Ponte Principe Amedeo di Savoia, which is pretty far, to catch the fireworks set off from Castel Sant’Angelo. We ran directly after eating so many courses that I thought I might puke; I managed to hold it in.

The next day Maggie and I tried to escape the heat with a trip to the beach. Not sure if it really worked. We spent the majority of our time on hot, sweaty public transportation, but we did make it to Lido di Ostia. We laid out on the black sand of the free beach and waded up to our knees in filthy water. It was then that I thought to myself, “Gee, I really need to see a nice Italian beach before I leave.” More on that later.

After we cooled off seaside, we heated back up in Ostia Antica, an ancient Roman port city. We climbed over ruins and through the grass rediscovering the empire of past days. It was a nice excursion, but it was over too soon. The site closed before we made it to the Casa di Diana. We did have fun in the amphitheater and temples though.

Fun in Ostia

The next day brought a walking tour of Rome. We made a checklist of all the things Maggie had left to see so that she wouldn’t miss anything. Our walking tour took us through the Ghetto, up to the Campidoglio, down beside the Forum and heading back towards home along Trajan’s forum. Check, check, check and check. The end of Skeers Family Fun came soon after. Maggie spent her last day buying goodies for the fam.

Us in Piazza Navona

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Stress, Food, Stress, Food…

This month has really been a crazy one, full of excitement, full of stress, full of food.

After Dan and Oana left I began cramming for the GRE, which I took on Monday. It went alright. I did surprisingly well on the math part (I’m good at guessing), but not as well as I would have liked to on the verbal portion. I find out my essay score via mail sometime next week. I need to get my act together so that I can apply to grad schools in December.

Other than that, I have had three more visitors in the eternal city. Kessler Dixon (no relation) and his girlfriend Laurel were in town. Unfortunately, I was so busy with the GRE that we were only able to meet up once for beers at Bar Trilussa. We had a great time complaining about/loving art history and all things Star Trek. Really, I don’t know how any conversation at Trilussa would be complete without it. Actually, earlier that week I met up with one of Danny and Hallie’s friends, Adam, at Trilussa and we argued over which Star Trek was superior, TNG or Voyager. Is there really any contest? PATRICK STEWART.

Anyway, I’m getting off-topic. So, my third, or rather fourth visitor was Steve Bunn. He’s a doctoral student at UW and he was in Europe pretending to do research. I took him to one of the best gelato hot spots in Rome, Gelato del Teatro, and we walked along the river before having dinner in Trastevere. Yay for visitors!

However, one of my favorite things from the last month was when the ex-director of the Rome Center, Trina, took the office staff out for lunch at a place called Bleve. It is a beautiful restaurant located at the old Medici family stables with a wine cellar larger than my family home. The Medici stables were built on top of ancient Roman ruins (as is everything in the city). When the restaurant decided to expand/remodel their cellar, the construction team discovered a completely intact tufa wall beneath the restaurant. Trina asked our waiter if we could see it and he took us down into the wine cellar for a private viewing of the beautiful stones. I wish I knew something about wine because there were floor-to-ceiling racks of vintage bottles. So cool!

Moving on to the food part, Sunday night the Art program had a potluck complete with burgers and oreos. Can you tell that they’re getting a little homesick? After dinner they held a contest for the best photo from their recent field trip to Sicily. Here’s the winner submitted by Ashton:

Photo by Ashton

On Monday the Food and Culture program had their final projects due. They had to prepare an artisanal dish completely from scratch. For example, Desiree made chesnut loaves and she went to a chesnut orchard and picked, shelled and ground the chesnuts herself. Coral made olive oil and picked the olives herself as well. Some of my other favorites were lamb, polenta and a huge assortment of desserts. Puff pastries, mmmmm.

It was not the end of my over-eating, however. This whole week I have been going crazy trying to plan a Thanksgiving feast for over 70 people: all the students and faculty from three programs and their guests. It all came together last night. Dinner was both beautiful and delicious with very few mishaps. I brought Roberto, the doorman a plate complete with all your Thanksgiving classics. He then asked what stuffing was and we had an interesting five-minute conversation about that… After stuffing ourselves, the Food program and I watched National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation to get us in the holiday spirit. It was a success! Here are a few photos from the night:

Beautiful Dining Room Pre-Dinner

Desiree filling her plate buffet-style

Chaos in the "Dessert Room"

So, I only have one week left in Rome and I have tons of Christmas shopping to do. Happy holidays and see you soon!

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Social Experiments

So, after we got back from Paris we had very little time to prepare for Halloween. My coworkers also told me that it’s not really celebrated here in Italy. However, Leish and I went on our evening passagiata (walk) and saw a ton of Italian kids trick-or-treating. They were running in and out of pubs, bars, restaurants, anything still open at 8:00pm with bags of candy in tow. Yay for Americanization! So, then Leisha and I went home and tried to put together costumes from what we already had lying around. I teased my hair, put on a sweater vest and wore my reading glasses with tape in the middle. Instant nerd. Leish put on a black dress, threw some floss in her hair and drew a web on her face with eyeliner. Instant spider lady. After our glorious costumes we complete, we headed over to Barnum Cafe to meet some of Leisha’s friends. We had other plans, but we ended up spending the whole evening with a group of people we met there. So fun!

Halloween

Spiderella and nerd on Halloween

I spent the next couple days resting and preparing for Dan and Oana’s arrival. Dan and I went to elementary, middle and high school together. Right now he has an internship in Düsseldorf, Germany and his girlfriend Oana is teaching English in Nice, France. They arrived on Tuesday night and when I picked them up from the train station, we began our mission for dinner which took us to 3+ restaurants. I still don’t know why things were closed that night. We had a lovely dinner in Trastevere. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to sightseeing with them during the week, but we spent the evenings going on walks that probably passed by the Pantheon and involved gelato in some way.

forum 1

Dan and Oana looking at the Forum from the Capitoline

Saturday was the first beautiful, warm, rain-free day of their visit and we went to the Capitoline Museums together, which is the first time I’ve been during my second stay in Rome. I’ve decided that I love that museum. It has two of my favorite sculptures: The Dying Gaul and Commodus as Hercules. The Commodus sculpture was especially fun to see because we drug the mattress into the conference room the night before and watched Gladiator on the big screen. It was perhaps too big. Another great thing about the Capitoline Museums is the wonderful view of the forum.

forum 2

View of the Forum from the Capitoline Museums

After the museums we made the trek to the Spanish Steps where they had constructed a fake Berlin wall in honor of the twentieth anniversary of the fall of the wall. I wonder if they knocked it down, too. We didn’t stay long enough to figure it out. Exhaustion.

Berlin in Rome

BERLYN / Spanish Steps

Our evening was a wonderful social experiment. After our huge Chinese dinner, we decided to go out to Anima, a dance club, so that I could demonstrate how persistent Italian guys can be. Dan, Oana and I had some good laughs that night. Unfortunately for them, they had to wake up just a few hours after getting to sleep to catch their flights back to Düsseldorf and Nice respectively.

On Sunday evening I met up with a German photographer named Chris and unfortunately did not practice German. Maybe next time! We went out for beers at a hole-in-the-wall bar and then took a passagiata before dinner. Mmmm saltimbocca.

Last night was Leisha’s birthday, but she is just getting over the illness from hell, so we took it easy. We went out to dinner in Trastevere and I ate my second baby cow of the week. Why does veal have to taste so good?!

Anyway, it’s finally less than a month until I will be back in the US for Christmas break. I’m starting to get very excited and also very broke. See you soon, America!

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